July 09, 2009

Better cotton threading its way towards global markets

BCI LOGO Gland, Switzerland: The first batch of sustainable cotton – to be produced with a fraction of the water and pesticide use of traditional cotton cultivation – is expected to reach global markets starting next year.

The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), a partnership between major corporations such as Adidas, IKEA, Gap, and H&M, and NGOs such as WWF, recently created a new set of criteria to make cotton cultivation more economically, environmentally, and socially sustainable.

The Better Cotton System outlines mechanisms to mitigate the negative impacts of one of the world’s most water and chemical crops, which is often grown in semi-arid and water scarce areas.

Cotton cultivation covers more than 2.4 percent of global arable land, involving about 30 million farmers. Cotton is produced in more than 65 countries worldwide, mainly in the developing world.

“The Better Cotton Initiative aims to make global cotton production better for the people who produce it and better for the environment it grows in” said Walter Wagner, WWF Switzerland, newly elected vice-chair of the BCI.

Pilot projects are slated to test the BCI system in Pakistan, India, Africa, and Brazil to provide sustainable cotton to textile makers and buyers starting next year. For example, the initiative aims to reduce water and pesticide use.

Projects underway in Pakistan and India led by WWF and IKEA have led to 75 percent reduction in water and pesticide use, while increase the net revenue to cotton producers by 70 percent.

“BCI endeavors to initiate global change in the mass market, with long-term benefits for the environment, farmers and other people dependent on cotton for their livelihood,” according to its website.

Original post here: World Wildlife Fund (WWF) Panda.org

Link here: Better Cotton Initiative (BCI)

June 24, 2009

Green Recovery: Get Lean, Get Smart, and Emerge from the Downturn on Top

                               Winston_300dpi
Green Recovery, written by Green to Gold author Andrew Winston, explains why making environmentally sound decisions is a must in tough times, and offers a step-by-step guide to making green thinking an easy and lucrative part of your company's recovery strategy.

Based on Green Recovery, "Green Cost Cutting" outlines the five key ways every business can use eco-friendly business practices to start saving money right now.

Andrew’s book is expected to be available in August.

You can download a core chapter of the book here. Green Recovery

May 22, 2009

From Blue to Green.......Cotton

                               The COTTONKGN. FROM BLUE TO GREEN.® denim drive was first created in 2006 as a promotion activity for Cotton Incorporated’s collegiate mobile marketing initiative COTTON’S DIRTY LAUNDRY TOUR®.

The COTTON. FROM BLUE TO GREEN.® denim drive served as a grassroots student-run campaign to educate college coeds about their favorite cotton clothing — denim. Not only is cotton cool and comfortable, but it is a resource that is natural, renewable and recyclable.

The COTTON. FROM BLUE TO GREEN.® denim drive utilizes donated denim and gives it “new life” by converting it to UltraTouch™ Natural Cotton Fiber Insulation for homes. The insulation is then provided to communities in need to assist with building efforts. UltraTouch™ is composed of 85% recycled cotton fibers and is an environmentally safe, non-itch insulation without carcinogenic warnings, formaldehyde or chemical irritants

Since the start of the COTTON. FROM BLUE TO GREEN.® denim drive in 2006, the program has partnered with several Corporate sponsors including G by Guess and Warner Brothers Studios. They have received a total of 89,799 pieces of denim and provided over 185,000 sq. ft. of UltraTouch™ Natural Cotton Fiber Insulation to help build 180 homes at Habitat for Humanity affiliates in the Gulf Coast Region.Cotton Inc. BLUE TO GREEN Website Link Here

For more information on why Cotton Inc's work with 'green' insulation is so important-
See the Mesothelioma & Asbestos Awareness Center

April 28, 2009

The (r)evolution of textiles:

From the Industrial Revolution to the Chemical Revolution to the
Green Revolution.

Check out Harmony Art's the (r)evolution of textiles.

the (r)evolution of textiles:

 
Harmony 

April 13, 2009

Looking Upstream: A New View of 21st Century Business Practices

By Coral Rose

Original post here:The University of Delaware's online FIBER JOURNAL publicationCommunity-globe

We have witnessed decades of widespread global economic growth, in which we have seen the standard of living for millions of people around the world rise to unprecedented levels. As China and India enter the age of consumerism, global economic development is linked not only to the core practices of business, but that of environmental and social issues as well.

Our planet now supports 6.5 billion people. We are adding to that, about 70 million people each year. Some may assert that the current global economic business model cannot support or sustain social and economic progress for the projected 8 billion people who will live on this planet by 2050.

In the world of globalization, fundamentally social and environmental issues are business issues and are inseparable from one another.

According to a recent poll conducted by the Global Strategy Group, 87 percent of consumers are more likely to buy products from a retailer that is committed to environmentally sound practices.

With increased awareness, the concern for many companies becomes how to achieve the maximum economic benefit from environmentally and socially responsible products and practices while at the same time increasing shareholder value and increasing stakeholder trust.

Hidden from our View

Today, the majority of products’ social and environmental impacts are hidden from our view — that is, the effects of a product’s social and environmental impacts (life cycle) before it hits the shelves and consumers’ hands. The average designer to purchasing agent (consumers as well) is unaware of the global impacts of their decisions. Hidden from their sight is what lies upstream; all the impacts of growing, processing, manufacturing and transporting raw materials and component parts. Twentieth-century business practices have taught these professionals to focus only on what is downstream (production to consumer).

In the United States in 1960, we were generating 2.7 pounds of waste per person per day. In 2006, that number is 4.6 pounds of waste per person per day. By the time that waste fills one garbage can, 70 garbage cans of waste was created upstream to make the stuff that is now going to the landfill.

To begin to create an accurate picture of what and who are upstream and to make informed decisions about what actions we will take downstream, we must begin to ask: What is the source of our raw materials? Where were the materials harvested, processed, produced? And who and what (people-animals-environment) in the supply chain is affected by the harvesting, processing, and production of our products?

Considering all the social and environmental impacts from harvest/processing to waste/reuse is a total mindset shift at the product design and creation level and a key component to sustainable economic development strategies.

Supply chain transparency is one of the basic tenents or “rules of engagement” for any 21st-century business model.

Ethical Consumerism

Ethical consumerism is on the rise. It’s a movement based on purchasing products that have been ethically produced by organizations that are involved in a process of ensuring that the basic labor rights of the employees of their Third World suppliers are respected.

According to a recent study reported by the Wall Street Journal, companies that embrace more ethical production practices (social and environmental) that are third-party certified, may produce larger profit margins.

What are consumers willing to pay for a pound of coffee based on what they were told about the company’s production standards?

  • Ethical standards . . . . . . . . . $9.71
  • Unethical standards. . . . . . . . $5.89
  • Control (no information) . . . . . $8.31

Source: WSJ — Does Being Ethical Pay?

Consumers may be willing to purchase unethically produced products, but at a steep discount. A recent survey by BBMG indicated that 35 percent of all Americans have avoided buying a product because of a company’s practices. Return on investment (ROI) in the 21st century is clearly rooted in social and environmental responsibility and the ability of a company to look upstream when making sourcing decisions.

Fair Trade — Supply Chain Transparency

Fair Trade Certification is a market-based model of international trade that benefits over one million farmers and farm workers in developing countries. Fair Trade products have experienced consistent global growth in the 40 percent range over the last few years, making Fair Trade good for business.

The roots of Fair Trade can be traced back to churches in North America and Europe in the late 1940s. The goal of these organizations was to provide relief to refugees and other poverty-stricken communities by selling their handicrafts to Northern markets. In the U.S., Alternative Trade Organizations (ATOs), such as Ten Thousand Villages and Equal Exchange, purchase from worker-owned cooperatives. The ATOs were formed to import Fair Trade crafts and coffee to the U.S. market.

In 1988, world coffee prices began a sharp decline, The Netherlands’ Max Havelar offered the mainstream coffee industry the first standardized system of Fair Trade criteria. Currently, Fairtrade Labeling Organizations International (FLO) is the “umbrella organization” that establishes Fair Trade standards globally for the industry using a multi-stakeholder process.

Fair Trade standards require sustainable farming techniques and offer further price premiums for organic production, but Fair Trade certification does not guarantee that a product was organically grown. Where farmers are not certified organic, they are required to implement a system of integrated crop management (ICM). FLO stiuplates that the International Labor Organization’s (ILO) conventions be followed.

One hundred million people around the world rely on cotton for their livelihoods. Fairtrade certified cotton carrying the FAIRTRADE Mark was launched in April 2005. Countries and producers receiving certification for cotton include farmers in India, Mali, Peru, and Senegal, Burkina Faso, and Egypt. Pakistan and Brazil will follow in the near future.

Note: Under the FAIRTRADE Mark it is only the cotton that is certified Fairtrade, not the yarn, fabric, or garment. Therefore, a product can only be referred to as Fairtrade Cotton NOT for example a Fairtrade Cotton shirt. The label must read: “Made with FAIRTRADE Certified Cotton.” Currently The United Nations “Least Developed” Countries are the only countries eligible for Fair Trade Certification.

The term Fair Trade is sometimes used interchangeably with Ethical Trading. Ethical Trading refers to organizations. The FAIRTRADE Mark, applies to products rather than organizations.

Walmart — Increasing Social and Environmental Global Supply Chain Standards

Walmart Stores, Inc., recently announced in Beijing, China, that the company will focus on taking a number of steps to strengthen and enforce supplier compliance with rigorous social and environmental standards, including the creation of a new supplier agreement and scorecards that will require factories to certify compliance with laws and regulations where they operate.

The agreement will be phased in beginning with suppliers in China in January 2009. It will expand to suppliers globally by 2011. In terms of supply chain transparency, by 2009, Walmart will require all direct import suppliers plus all suppliers of private label and non-branded products to provide the name and location of every factory they use to make the products it sells. The company will also instruct all suppliers it buys from directly to source 95 percent of their production from factories that meet the company’s highest ratings on social and environmental practices by 2012.

Looking Forward

Organizations not communicating their social and environmental practices and progress may lose out to their competitors that do. Here are some steps you can take:

  1. Not only understand but be responsible for improving your product’s life cycle. To better understand where you can improve your performance both economically, socially, and environmentally, consider Lifecycle assessments (LCA.) Reach out to NGOs and subject matter experts to support this process.
  1. Develop and choose products that can be authenticated to the source. Strive to use independent third-party certification or accredited standards (e.g. Organic, Fair Trade).
  1. Educate your organization, consumers, and investors. Focus on energy saved, waste reduced, pollutants eliminated, and protection of workers’ rights. Be prepared to link to a source that can authenticate all of the above statements and tell the whole story across the supply chain. Note both the successes and the areas for improvement. Supply chain transparency is the new business and marketing model.
  1. Many view social and environmental sustainability as the competitive advantage to the slowing economy. Organizations that can adapt quickly to the current troubled economy and become focused on the cost savings of sustainable business practices may be the ones to deliver a return on investment in tough times. Cost savings derived from increased energy efficiency of the supply chain could lead us to not only cost savings but a more localized and regionalized supply chain versus one that is globalized.
  1. Keep your eye on the future and horizon issues. Plan now. Should consumers opt to buy less, how will this affect your business model? Will you be offering more services to offset the lower product sales?

Economic success in the 21st century will be measured and led by brands and retailers that can successfully create long-term brand value and stakeholder loyalty by creating products, processes, and services that consider the environmental and social impacts of their supply chains.

April 10, 2009

Sustainability Leadership: An Interview with Coral Rose

You can find the original interview here; "Focus Sustainability" 2008; a comprehensive report by Lenzing Fibers.F3855_1

Coral Rose, expert on Sustainable Textiles, talks about her views on sustainability in the 21st century. 

 What do you think about Lenzing’s achievements in sustainable management
and which aspects do you consider to be most essential according to your experience?
 

Sustainable innovation is the key economic driver of the 21st century. Supply chain transparency is one of the basic tenets or “rules of engagement” for any sustainable business.
Lenzing offers the fiber market what few, if any, producers of fibers do, and that is both sustainable innovation and full transparency of the supply chain. One of the most important global issues is “what is the source of our raw materials? Where were the materials harvested, processed, produced?” This is a total mindset shift at the textile design level. 

Do you think that the communication of the Lenzing Botanic Principles has been
well received by the important players in the market?
 

Lenzing’s Botanic Principles lead us back to the source of life on the planet, back to nature. They enhance the education of the market by applying these simple, yet easy to- understand principles. Botanic Principles connect the lifecycle of nature and sustainability to fiber innovation. Nature and sustainability are not separable. 

I strongly believe Lenzing’s products are a key component to any sustainable fiber strategy, when considering all the environmental impacts associated with fiber growing and production. Lenzing Modal® and TENCEL ® come out on top – practical, applicable and economically viable to integrate into fiber strategies of most global organizations. 

In which segments of the industry do you feel Lenzing innovations have been most visible? 

Lenzing places a high priority not only on supply chain transparency and disclosure, but also continual improvement and ongoing research and improvements of their products. Their innovations are especially vital to the activewear market as options to replace high-performance petrol based products, while maintaining quality fiber performance and economical viability. Many activewear brands are also struggling with finding sustainable options for organic cotton as their customers require garments that have excellent moisture management. Lenzing’s fibers offer the market sustainable fiber performance solutions.

Apart from the more product related aspects, how would you rate the importance of the more general social and environmental issues in the supply chain? Are customers prepared to pay premiums for outstanding performance in these fields? 

Fundamentally, social and environmental issues are business issues, and this concept is part of the core foundational principles at Lenzing. “People, Planet, Profit” is often used to describe the triple bottom line and the goal of sustainability. The fact is that they are all connected and should be thought of in one globally accepted conversation. Lenzing does just that. 

Human rights and environmental stewardship are inextricably linked. Everybody has the right to a secure, healthy and ecologically sound environment. We have also seen a huge market shift to fair trade products, from coffee to cotton, in the last few years. This is a positive sign that the brands and consumers are willing to pay extra to ensure that farmers and producers are able to live sustainably.

Lenzing sets very high benchmarks, where other fiber producers should aspire to. It is a key valued fiber partner and regards partnerships with the market to be very important. I recently toured the Modal facility in Lenzing, Austria, and was impressed with the closed loop system in place and accountability for all inputs and outputs. 

note; Believe it or not-that is a picture (above) of the Lenzing facility in Lenzing, Austria--right out of the "Sound of Music" in fact the Sound of Music was filmed on the bluff this picture was taken from!!!!!

Sustainable innovation is the key economic driver of the 21st century. Supply chain transparency is one of the basic tenets for any sustainable business.” Coral Rose

March 25, 2009

Adidas Stores Display Green Duds on Paper Hangers

Original post here at Sustainable Life Media

DittohangerMarch 24, 2009 - Adidas stores selling the company's new SVLR sustainable sportswear line are presenting their wares on recycled-content, 100% recyclable paper hangers made by Ditto, a green industrial design firm.

Adidas' SLVR clothing line features sustainable cotton, soybean-based fabric, and resource-efficient designs such as the "Zero Waste T," a t-shirt constructed from one piece of fabric with a single seam. But "green in the clothing industry isn't just about using bamboo fabrics or organic cottons or recycled denim," Adidas said in a statement. "It's also about how the clothing is presented to the customer."

Adidas collaborated with Ditto on the design for the new Ziggurat Paper Hanger, made of layered and highly compressed paperboard. The hanger has earned an International SPARKS Award for innovation in industrial design.

Adidas recently opened SVLR stores in New York and Paris and says it plans to introduce the line in other major cities later this year.

February 04, 2009

Cradle to Cradle offers certificate for textiles

Original post here on EcoTextileNews: Cradle to Cradle offers new ingredient certificate

Cradle-to-cradle-logo CHARLOTTESVILLE – [04.02.09] Cradle to Cradle, the ecological certificate developed by the McDonough Braungart Design Chemistry (MBDC) consultancy has introduced a new ‘approved ingredient’ element to its programme, which can be applicable to textiles and clothing.

The new Approved Ingredient certification programme assesses the sustainability of product ingredients for human and environmental health, as well as their recyclability or compostability. “The Cradle to Cradle Approved Ingredient certification makes it easier at the design stage to create ecologically-intelligent products by choosing materials that meet key sustainability criteria for material health and material reutilisation” said Jay Bolus, Vice President of Technical Operations for MBDC. “We invite material manufacturers to gain this designation and let their customers know about this as they qualify.”

The Cradle to Cradle Approved Ingredient designation is the second certification program developed by MBDC, which initially set out to identify end-products that met a series of environmental criteria with four levels of attainment, each requiring a higher achievement: Basic, Silver, Gold and Platinum.

MBDC‘s Ingredient certification is open to all manufacturers that make chemicals, materials or substances used in finished goods. Material assessments are conducted by an in-house team of scientists and project managers.

Copyright © 2008 Mowbray Communications

January 16, 2009

Control Union's New Recycled Textile Standard

GRS21 Original Post Here: Control Union revises new recycled textile standard

NETHERLANDS-Control Union (CU) has issued a brand new version of its – of its brand new recycled fibers standard – with quite some changes to the story we broke EARLIER in full collaboration with CU.

As we went to press, Control Union contacted us urgently to say a new version of the Global Recycling Standard (GRS) has just been released that now focuses firmly on the percentage of pre- and post-consumer recycled content of a textile product instead of the previously announced three tier gold, silver and bronze system, which would have seen products classified simply by percentage of recycled raw materials.

As was pointed out to CU, the amount of post- and pre-consumer recycled content in a product is important to retailers so they can present a fully transparent story to consumers. Additionally, under a tiered system based on content alone it would be possible that a textile with a very high level of recycled cotton (for example 50%) to be graded alongside a fibre product with only 50% recycled polyester. Most recycled polyester fibres are at least 95% recycled content.

“It could also mean that a fibre producer could spin low grade fibre and then melt recycle into new fibre that meets the ‘gold standard’ (which previously stated more than 95% content),” said one industry insider.

So in the re-launch document for the Global Recycling Standard CU has worked closely with the industry to ensure GRS products will now be categorised based on the amount of pre- and/or post consumer recycled raw materials they contain. This amount is expressed as a percentage with a minimum of 5% content and the wording on GRS labelled products must say: “Made with recycled [raw material] – X% pre-consumer and X% post-consumer .”

The new GRS version also has strict provision for how internal waste is handled during the production process.

More on this story in the December issue of Ecotextile News. CLICK HERE to subscribe.

Copyright © 2008 Mowbray Communications

 

December 15, 2008

Will Sustainability Feel the Squeeze?

Dollar.squeeze

EcoTextileNews Cover Story-November 2008 issue

by Coral Rose

As a result of the U.S. credit crunch and slowing economy, we are now seeing consumers including, ethical consumers become more economically conscious. What remains to be seen is how, if and when this might affect the solid upward trend of organic and sustainable fibers and products.

The Lenzing Group recently released results for the first half of 2008. With noted strong sales increases of 17.4%, they may be the first to acknowledge a shift in the market; “First signs of a weakening global fiber market were perceptible already from the beginning of the second quarter.”  And “The unfavorable economic development that started in the USA clouds expectations for the global economy. The weak dollar and turbulent raw material and energy markets will add further pressure”

In a global economy, U.S. issues are global issues. There are now concerns that the U.S. credit crisis is spreading to Europe and quickly becoming a global economic hurtle.

“In the short run, I hear people saying that we won’t have the resources to address sustainability now that we’re spending a trillion rescuing the financial system.  That seems backwards.  We need to address climate change and resource shortages even more aggressively.  It’s about risk management.  The leaner we are, the less stuff we use to make every product and service, the better prepared we are for whatever comes our way.” Andrew Winston, Founder of Eco-Strategies, and Co-Author Green to Gold.

We have witnessed decades of widespread global economic growth, in which we have seen the standard of living for millions of people, around the world rise to unprecedented levels.  As China and India enter the age of consumerism, global economic development is linked not only to the core practices of business, but that of environmental and social issues as well.

Our planet now supports 6.5 billion people. We are adding to that, about 70 million people each year. Some might assert that the current global economic business model cannot support or sustain economic progress for the projected 8 billion people who will live on this planet by 2050.

“In many ways, the credit crunch is the epitome of non-sustainability. Observing this crisis, you can study the consequences of non-sustainable (economic) actions that - in the end - will affect people, in other words the social/societal dimension of sustainability. For us this development strengthens the conviction that sustainable management is the only way of succeeding in the long run and we will continue to focus on sustainability in all respects." Friedrich Weninger, Vice-President, Lenzing AG. 

In the coming months, we will invariably see organizations implementing mid-course short term adjustments to their long term strategies. Some consider this the opportunity of the 21st Century; to bring fresh ideas, knowledge, collaborative resources and innovation together in ways that link sustainability, with opportunities for sustainable economic growth. 

David Basson, President of Greensource Organic Company, views sustainability as “the competitive advantage to the slowing economy.”  “Sustainability is front and center on consumer’s minds right now, with high energy costs being a primary focus of the current Presidential elections.”

“We are seeing a tighter economy; consumers are looking for value and shopping at stores that they had not previously frequented.”  He noted a recent trip where he observed many high - end cars in a Walmart parking lot, he sees this as an enormous opportunity for Mass Market retailers.

While the current economic slowdown is not affecting Greensource fiber strategies, David Basson noted that pricing is still a large factor. As a vertical supplier he stressed the importance of long term relationships in his supply chain, as being “key to being able to service his customers through any economic challenges that may occur.”

Brian Powell, Director Sales & Operations-West for YKK USA, is optimistic about sustainability for the YKK brand. While foreseeing a potential definitive economic ‘downturn’ for the next year to eighteen months, “YKK understands that customers are resilient and will support the brands that can differentiate their product selections bringing added value such as sustainable designs/materials.” YKK is looking long term, and will move forward with sustainability. “YKKs culture is rooted in sustainability, we will continue to invest and build products cradle to cradle from recycled and or organic materials because we believe that profitability is synonymous with being sustainable.”

Patagonia is a brand that has successfully created long term brand value and stakeholder loyalty by considering the environmental and social impacts of their supply chain and products. Levi Straus & Co. recently reported that the current economic slowdown “is not hindering any product initiatives or other work LS&CO is doing in this (sustainability) area.”

"Marc Gunther, Senior Writer Fortune Magazine, who writes about the impact of business on society, with a focus on environmental issues, says “that this turmoil in the capital markets can't be good for the sustainability movement.” however, “if nothing else the economic slowdown is a huge distraction. But this will pass, eventually, and then there is no way that companies, and consumers, are going to be able to ignore sustainability"

"Walmart remains committed to Sustainability," according to Walmart spokeswoman Shannon Frederick; “At Walmart, we believe that being environmentally friendly and running a good business go hand in hand during times of economic prosperity as well as during tough economic times like our customers are currently experiencing. We remain committed to our sustainability-focused goals to be supplied 100% by renewable energy, to create zero waste, and to sell products that sustain our resources and the environment. All along we have said that we believe families should have access to affordable environmentally-friendly products. And we're committed to making sure our customers don't have to choose between a more sustainable product and one they can afford.”

How might the economic slowdown affect consumer purchasing behavior? Natural Marketing Institute recently reported that consumers state higher purchases of “Natural” versus “Organic” foods and beverages. “This is driven by a wide range of factors; levels of understanding, availability, price, and perceived benefits.”  Will we see this trend from organic to ‘natural’ (sustainable) in the fiber market?

As the impacts of a slowing economy are felt, companies that can adapt quickly to the troubled economy and become focused on the cost savings of sustainable business practices may be the ones to deliver a return on investment in tough times. Cost savings derived from increased energy efficiency of the supply chain, could lead us to a more localized and regionalized supply chain versus one that is globalized.

Economically tough times of the past yield us some insight to forthcoming possible actions; Retailers may sharpen margins and work towards leaner inventories; this will trickle down the supply chain. Brands and retailers may be less willing to make long term commitments at least for the short term until the rising economic tide has passed. Consumers will invariably spend less money while at the same time looking for products with added brand value, and consumers will shift to purchasing practical-no frills basics, this includes upcoming holiday gift purchases.

It is clear that companies who can strategize to thrive during this time, will no doubt be well situated for long term sustainable economic development and growth.

Copyright(C) 2008 Mowbry Communications Limited